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Methods of verifying used Nebr./Kans. overprints.

There are four steps to checking a suspect Nebr. Overprint (same goes for the Kans. Overprint):

  1. Check the perforations – there should be 11 X 10 ½.
  2. Check for the presence of Type II gum breakers – there should only be one if present.
  3. Check for the color of the suspect with example of the three different issues.
  4.  Direct comparison of the suspect overprint with a known genuine example.

The perforations of the suspect are 11 X 10 ½ which make the suspect the correct rotary press issue. The presence of a gum breaker or breakers cannot be determined for the suspect. If any were present they have been pressed out or are hidden by the hinge remain or creases. The color of a genuine overprinted stamp is a dark dull blue while the color of Type I and Type III gum breaker stamps is a light blue. Below is an image of a Type I, Type II and Type III gum breaker stamps with the suspect below them. As can be seen the top middle stamp (Type II) is slightly darker than the outside stamps. The suspects color closely matches the top middle stamps color.

Lastly is an examination of the suspects overprint in comparison to a known genuine example. All of the literature I have read states that in genuine overprints the letters will be on the same level. What I have not seen but suspect is true is that the overprint will be parallel with the image frame of the stamp. I believe this to be true because of the way the stamps were manufactured in one step from a roll of blank paper until after the overprint was applied. The plates used to print the stamp were made to exacting standards of quality resulting in perfectly square images and I have no doubt that the electro-plates used to apply the overprints were also made to those same exacting quality standards.

Below is an image if a known genuine overprint showing that it is parallel to the image frame.

Not only is the overprint parallel with the image frame but the letters of the overprint are also on the same plane. The suspect on the other hand has an overprint that is not parallel with the image frame and the letters are not in the same plane with the “e” and “b” slightly higher than the “N” and “r”.

A direct comparison of each letter in the suspect to the same letters in the known genuine example shows there are noticeable differences.

Take the “N” for instance; the suspect “N” is much wider and a bit shorter than the genuine “N”. The left edge of the left leg of the two “N”s are lined up vertically while the bottom of the two “N”s are lined up horizontally.

There is a significant difference in the “e”s as well. The suspect “e” is more of a round shape when compared to the genuine “e” which is oval in shape.

The “b” of the suspect is shorter and wider than the genuine “b”. The body of the genuine “b” is oval in shape whereas the body of the suspects “b” is round. The serf at the top of the genuine “b” is not present on the suspect, the vertical portion of the genuine “b” is truly vertical from top to bottom but the top part of the suspect “b” slants to the left above the body of the “b” and lastly the bottom left corner of the suspect in no way matches the bottom left corner of the genuine article

The suspect “r” is shorter than the genuine “r”. The vertical section of the suspect is thicker than the genuine; the serf at the top left of the genuine is not present in the suspect as well as the serf at the bottom of the genuine.

Another thing that I noticed when looking close at the letters is that the top of the “N”, “b”, “r” and the period are impressed into the paper as illustrated by the images below.

 

The indentations on the front are also seen as bumps on the back of the stamp.

In conclusion I can state with absolute certainty that the suspect overprint is a fake.  Since most of the ink in the suspect overprint is around the outside edges I suspect that it was a typewriter that was used to make the suspect overprint though a metal hand stamp is also a possibility.

Reference material used:  used: 

  • Counterfeit Kansas-Nebraska Overprints on 1922-34 Issue By Robert H. Schoen and James T. DeVoss / First Day Covers of the Kansas-Nebraska Overprints by Jack V. Harvey.
  • US Definitive Series 1922-1938 By Martin A Armstrong, pages 47 through 64
  • How to Detect Damaged, Altered, and Repaired Stamps by Paul W. Schmid, pages 76 through 81

As always comments and suggestions are always welcome. To Contact Riverside


To Contact Riverside Stamps:
Email:
Mike Girard - Owner / Operator / Web Master: g1rardmn1099@comcast.net


I am a member of the American Philatelic Society

Member of APS
APS #: 205494
Visit the American Philatelic Society
Website at www.stamps.org

I am a member of the United States Stamp Society

Member of the USSS
USSS #: 16733
Visit the United States Stamp Society
Website at www.usstamps.org

I am a member of the Perfins Club


Perfins Club #: 4266
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Website at https://www.perfins.org/